October 9, 2017: Day 3, part 1, Willimantic and Margaret.

“Each person who ever was or is or will be has a song. It isn’t a song that anybody else wrote. It has its own melody, it has its own words. Very few people get to sing their song. Most of us fear that we cannot do it justice with our voices, or that our words are too foolish or too honest, or too odd. So people live their song instead.”

                                                                                             ― Neil Gaiman, Anansi Boys

The kids and I leave New Haven behind and head off into the wilds of Connecticut.  I used to tell everyone that I was born in Storrs, Connecticut, the home of the UConn Huskies, but it would be more accurate to say that while I was born at the hospital in Storrs, I lived my first two years a few miles down the road in the small town of Willimantic.  My grandfather owned a house on Church Street and I have vague memories of visiting there as a child and walking through the pines behind his house.  I can still recall the crisp, dry pine scent and the crunch of the thick mat of brown needles.  I want to retrace those steps but our first mission to see if we can find the house on Church Street.

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Willimantic is a classically rendered New England town and we find Church Street easily enough; it is after all a short lane directly off Main Street, placing it in the exact center of Americana.  It was overcast and gray this day in early October, unseasonably warm so as to not offend our equatorial sensibilities.

If I were a better genealogist / cartographer I would have done my homework earlier and figured out which of the fine old houses on Church Street was Grandper’s house.  I apparently assumed that it would just suddenly occur to me in a flash of memory as we drove along, but in retrospect this was just my foolish pride relying on the whimsy of conceit.  We pulled to the side and I called my brother Bill and left him a message in hopes that he would simply know the address.  The kids await my instructions, suspecting that while we found Church Street, reliance on ol’ Dad’s memory was not going to find Grandper’s house this day. 

I tell them,” let’s go see if we can find Margaret.”

My sister, Margaret Ann Fenton, died in Willimantic on the 9th day of September, 1949, just two weeks after I was born.  She was only three years old on the terrible day she was found in a nearby pond.  

Fenton kids
Left to right; Bill, Grandper, John and Margaret – at the house on Church Street

I know the approximate location and address of the cemetery in Mansfield so we off we go, leaving Church Street behind. 

We find the Mansfield cemetery down a narrow country road.  It is set far back and away from any dwellings

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We pull in the narrow entrance and quickly realize that there is neither caretaker nor map.  We are on our own.  I have a plot number but no way to locate it and once again my hopes are dwindling.  We drive slowly around the quiet sylvan setting looking at ancient headstones, some dating back to the 1700’s.  I am about to give up when incredibly I spot a large headstone saying FENTON.  We stop and approach.  The headstone is very old and etched with the names of ancestors who lived long ago. 

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I realize that this is a family grave site, hundreds of years old.  And there, on the ground, is another stone.

Margaret

I have found Margaret only by the sheerest of happenstance, as if she was calling out to me.  As I look at her resting place I cannot help but think of this little girl waiting patiently all these years; waiting for her little brother to drop by for a visit and introduce his kids.  I would like to tell her about all the things we said and did and saw and thought and dreamed.  We share the Fenton name and here in this quiet place we meet at long last, along the arc of time.  Had she lived she would have been 72 this year and the stories I am writing now would have been very different, in ways I cannot imagine.

I often think about the choices we make or are made for us, and how so many things had to happen just so to find us here and now.  These thoughts lead me to consider destiny and the road we are fated to take, yet I know with certainty that time flows only forward and we ride bravely on, passengers headed to what is profound and possible.  Imagining a life with different choices is the stuff of stories and dreams.  We are at the place our journey took us and no other.  The rest are ghosts.

I could never sing my song, so I lived it instead.

October 8, 2017: Day 2, New Haven, Connecticut and Yale University.

“All the rivers run into the sea;
yet the sea is not full…”
                                                  ~ Richard Brautigan, “The Return of the Rivers”

We are on our way to New Haven, Connecticut to eat pizza and see Yale University, not necessarily in that order…oh wait yes, precisely in that order. I note on the map that there is this large barrier blocking our path to Connecticut, something called “New York City”.  Google is once again in charge and tells us that it would be a good idea to avoid the George Washington Bridge through NYC proper and head up the Jersey side and attack Connecticut from the west. All of this sounds vaguely like an army preparing a battle plan, which I guess in a way we are.

For some reason I always thought of New Haven as a little rural college town like Chapel Hill. It is actually closer in size to Raleigh which is the big city down in these here parts of Carolina. New Haven is surrounded by, or maybe comprised of, the municipalities of East, North and West Haven. I wondered if there was a *South* Haven but if so it would have to be in the ocean and be called Atlantis.

Anyway, the entire Haven family is collectively a pretty cool place and beside being the home of Yale University it is also the city with arguably the best pizza in the USA. The locals refer to these pies as “apizza” in deference to the source culture and language of Naples, Italy. Another oddity is that the mozzarella cheese topping is referred to as “mootz” by long-time residents. I am pretty sure if foreign interlopers such as ourselves attempted to use these words, the local linguistic police would descend, whisk us away to some drab cellar and force us to listen endlessly to Dick Van Dyke painfully attempting to mimic a cockney accent in Mary Poppins.  (In the previous sentence I almost wrote “linguine police” which would have been a mondo cool typo).

Pepe’s and Sally’s are the two legendary New Haven pizzerias most sought after by tourists and locals alike, so we head there to see what all the fuss was about. 3:00PM on a Sunday in October and the lines are out the door in both places! Who knew?

new-haven-apizza

We settle for a place with NO waiting lines which I, Mr Literal, have named the NoLinesNewHavenPizzaPlace, or NLNHPP for short. The pizza at NLNHPP was out of this world – it’s hard to describe how good this thing was — although to be fair I didn’t try the white clam pizza because, guck.  If I lived in New Haven I would eat pizza exclusively and weigh 300 pounds.  Hello, the name is Mootz, MIKE Mootz.

We are here not for the pizza but because the Fenton clan has Yale connections.  My father graduated in 1939 with an MA in Forestry, and my grandfather received a Law degree in 1901.  The kids and I wandered about the campus in New Haven, mingling with students and tourists alike.  I guess I should not have been surprised at the tourists; after all they were watching us as we were watching them.  We stood outside Yale Law School where my grandfather attained his law degree. 

yale-law

I suppose it might be said that there is a sameness about university campuses, but the great institutions like Yale carry the weight of history in and among the buildings.  It is a palpable presence, the ghost of past discoveries clinging like intellectual ivy to the sandstone walls.  It has been 117 years since my grandfather walked the halls and grounds of Yale, nearly 80 years since Pop did.  We came here to pay our respects to the University and to those in our family who were part of it.

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Tomorrow we drive west to my place of birth to try and find Granper’s house in Willimantic, Connecticut.  Then to Providence, R.I. and up to Portland Maine.

October 8, 2017: Day 2 part 2, New Lisbon, NJ.

“…There are things you can’t reach. But
you can reach out to them, and all day long.
The wind, the bird flying away. The idea of God.
And it can keep you as busy as anything else,
And happier;
I look; morning to night I am never done with looking…”

                                                                 ~Mary Oliver

Some fifty years after leaving I have come back to New Lisbon, NJ. Matthew and Stephanie are with me and I wonder what they think of this small village in southern New Jersey that lacks a discernible center, an ordinary place with no defining characteristics. No great towers or museums or rivers or stadiums; just houses, fields, roads and trees scattered about like discarded toys on a playroom floor. I almost feel embarrassed at the plainness of New Lisbon, with its raging simplicity that confounds the memory in defiance of grandeur. It should be more dramatic, but it simply is not.

Still, life happens in small towns and here are some things I do remember.


I struggled at Pemberton Township High School, not because the material was beyond me, but because I actively sought the middle.  This was the time in my life where I basically hunkered down and tried to avoid attention.  Once, I remember winning a National Merit Scholarship award.  When my name was called in assembly I ducked my head and became invisible while my juvenile delinquent pals snickered and called me egghead, in their world a mark of shame.

In November of 1963 the school broadcast over the loudspeakers that President Kennedy had been shot and that we should pray for our country.  Little did we know how profound that loss would be and how tumultuous the decade to follow.

On this trip I tried to find the old high school but it had long since been replaced by a great gray cluster of buildings that look vaguely like a prison complex.  I sought out the history of the school but it only went back as far at 1990.  1965 apparently has been relegated to the ancient mythos of prehistory.  Perhaps I could find the fossilized remains of old term papers?

This was also the time and place that Baseball became my bedrock; from playing organized ball in the Babe Ruth League to keeping intricate and detailed box scores of my favorite team, the Yankees.  Mickey Mantle was my hero then and I tried to copy his swing when I played.  The Mick played center field, so I played center field.  I was never really an athlete; just a kid who liked to play ball.

The garden.  Everywhere we lived Pop had a garden.  Below you can see the one in New Lisbon with Pop checking his handiwork.  Pop would can everything possible, but mostly I remember a cellar filled with row upon row of mason jars filled with snap-beans.

garden in nj

I would often ride my bike the four miles out to this circle ironically called “4-Mile Circle”, quite an adventure since this was a time before such things as bike lanes.  At the intersection was a diner which served this amazing thin-sliced ham sandwich piled so thick it was a challenge to bite it.


The kids and I rolled out of New Lisbon with a better appreciation of the place that was so central to my upbringing.  Next: New Haven and Yale University.

 

 

October 8, 2017: Day 2 part 1, New Lisbon, NJ.

“…everything is necessary. Every least thing. This is the hard lesson. Nothing can be dispensed with. Nothing despised. Because the seams are hidden from us, you see. The joinery. The way in which the world is made. We have no way to know what could be taken away. What omitted. We have no way to tell what might stand and what might fall…”
                                                         – Cormac McCarthy, The Crossing

The drive from Laurel Maryland to New Lisbon NJ might appear on the surface to be uneventful — and it would be — unless you instruct Google to pick the route that avoids toll roads.  In this case Google sends us through downtown Baltimore in a twisty path designed to consider some of that fine city’s less visited neighborhoods.  At some point I realized that while I was actually driving the car, I was also a kind of passenger.  I wanted to ask the kids, “are we there yet?”  This route did take us right by Johns Hopkins Hospital, a place I recognized from some work I did in the 90’s whilst in Singapore. JHU

You may be wondering why we are headed to New Lisbon, NJ.  In 1961 Pop transferred from Laurel to a forestry research center in southern New Jersey, near the town of Pemberton in the tiny village of New Lisbon. And by tiny I mean a grouping of a few houses that these days might be lucky to be called a neighborhood. Brother John had joined the Air Force immediately upon graduation from Laurel High School, so the family in New Jersey was Mom, Pop, Bill, myself and assorted animals. The four years I lived there remain indistinct in my memory, as if remembering a book written about events that happened to someone else. These are the years when I entered puberty and became a teenager with all that implies, so I may have suppressed some of it for the sake of my sanity – and yours.

New Lisbon and its surrounds are one reason why New Jersey is called the Garden State. The region is a patchwork quilt of farms large and small which might surprise given its proximity to Philadelphia. I was oblivious to this while growing up there — I truly cannot remember thinking about the farmland surrounding me. To the east lies the mysterious and forbidding pine barrens, home of the legendary Jersey Devil.

I can remember one hot summer picking blueberries for the Tru-Blu-Berry Cooperative which, besides the forestry research center where Pop worked, was pretty much the only employment in town. Bill and I worked side-by-side with the migrant workers, dropping berries into metal pails hung around our necks with thick rope straps. The berries were large and sweet and eating them was allowed as long as you accepted the cruel calculus that each berry consumed is one less for the pail.  The migrant workers are professional and relentless, rapidly stripping berries from the tall bushes and filling their pails like a scene filmed using time-lapse photography.

blueberry

When our pails were full we would trudge back to the shed where the company reps would weigh our pickings and pay you per pail by weight. More than once Bill caught the guy (“The Boss”) putting his foot under the scale to cheat us. We were rubes in the business of harvesting and therefore prime targets for deception in this capitalistic rite of passage. At first Boss would get mighty peeved when his game was exposed but Bill never backed down — we got paid in full and garnered hard-won field cred in the process.

In thinking back, that job was physically the hardest I ever worked for what was really minimal income, but I valued every dollar I made out in the fields, under the unforgiving sun.

Fifty-five years later here we are, driving past the long abandon Tru-Blue property in New Lisbon, the roof of the warehouse sagging and broken, the loading dock rusted and gray.  Time in its linear way has moved on for the Cooperative as it has for the migrant workers who toiled here so many years ago and the two Fenton boys who briefly shared their space. The people who live in New Lisbon today and the cars that drive through this unremarkable little town give scant attention to one old neglected warehouse. But it has a story to tell, as do we all.newlisbon-1

We parked in front of the old house which was our home for nearly four years. It seemed smaller somehow, diminished as though the years had begun to take back what had been given.  Had I been more bold I would have knocked on the front door and introduced myself, but that seemed a little strange even to me so we just took some pictures.

The field across the street where I played baseball and touch football now had a sign saying “Property of US Government: No Trespassing”, making me wonder what exactly was being protected there and if a squadron of black helicopters were hovering nearby.

newlisbonfield

(The next chapter will complete the New Jersey part of our journey, and send us off to New Haven, Connecticut)